I went from Arequipa/Peru to Copacabana/Bolivia in one day`s bus journey. The 8 hour bus ride was beautiful, with many picturesque mountains and flamingoes standing in small lakes. The border crossing was straight forward and a lot more pleasant than from Ecuador into Peru. The destination, Copacabana, is a small town on the Lake Titicaca, the largest high-altitude lake in the world that is located at 3800m. The altitude doesn’t give me anymore trouble; I am well acclimatized after spending the last 4 weeks in altitudes above 3500m. It`s a very touristy but pleasant town, with restaurants and cafes but also native life happening all around. I spent a night there before heading out to Isla del Sol by a 2 hour boat trip. Isla del Sol has two harbors, the south side, where most tourists get off, and the north side, which is a lot more isolated. I went to the north for two nights. Considering how many tourists visit Isla del Sol it was quite amazing on how non-touristy the island still is and how the natives go on their own business of farming and washing and just sustaining themselves. I had a little room at the front side of the town Cha´llapampa, because unfortunately I had all my luggage with me so could not wonder around a lot to find the best spot to sleep. On the backside of the town there was a huge lovely beach where cows, donkeys and pigs wonder around freely and stand in the water cooling off and drinking. There is a few small communities living on the island, but not every one of them has a school, so the kids might have to walk half an hour to the next community to attend school. There are no roads on the island, only walking treks. I spent a few hours on the beach relaxing and watching life happening around me. The next day, I walked all the way from the north to the south and back on the other side of the island. It was hot, sunny and windy, so I took a few breaks along the way dozing here and there and watching the clouds and the lake. The clouds were among the most amazing, in all different shapes and swirls and different layers and in breathtaking contrast to the water and the sky. I could not help but looking and gazing at them the whole day. My hike ended at some Inca ruins at the far north of the island, and by the time I got there, there was no one around and I had all the ruins to myself.
Even though Isla del Sol was so breathtakingly beautiful and I usually enjoy a bit of isolation, it also brought a bit of loneliness into my heart so I did not stay longer than 2 nights. Looking back at the pictures I wish I would have been a little more patient, because it is a magical island and it would have deserved a bit more of my attention. I moved on to La Paz, obviously a culture shock after stopping by in paradise. Although just 1.5 million people live in La Paz, it feels like being in India. It´s hustling and buzzing with thousands of people on the street selling all kinds of stuff, crazy traffic, dirt and smelliness. La Paz sits in a canyon at 3800m, huge mountains towering all around and the buildings clinging to the sides of the canyon. I got there not long before darkness and it was a bit of a challenge to find a place to eat (supermarkets do not seem to exist here) as I wasn’t sure how safe it is to walk around in the darkness. The next day was a bit easier with a map in my hand and nothing but a few bolivianos in my pocket. I went to the witches market where they sell everything from sandalwood, San Pedro and lama fetuses; and wondered through the streets being shoveled to the sides by police man in order not to get run over by traffic. I indulged myself in a few restaurants and had ice cream from a street vendor, also could not resist buying a couple more woolen hats. La Paz is a colorful and crazy place, fun to see for a couple of days, but nature is calling me again, so I am flying out to Rurrenabaque to visit the Bolivian pampas and jungle.
No comments:
Post a Comment